Expedition Around North America
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Leg 21 : Reykjavik (Iceland) - Tromsø (Norway)
( May 2 to 16, 2009 )
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Leg 21
Reykjavik (Iceland) - Tromsø (Norway)
( May 2 to 16, 2009 )

May 16, 2009 (time onboard = TU + 2)
Tromsø, Norway,
69°39’N – 018°57’E
23:30 local time

We set sail early this morning. A heavy fog wrap us in a greyish cocoon. Everything is absolutely quiet. We hit the road for the last run of the expedition. While we are approaching, the visibility clears up on a beautiful blue sky. At 10 AM sharp, we are entering the harbor as planned. The loch indicates 21 687 nautical miles done in one year (40 164 kms). A part of the team and crewmembers are here. In this joyful and solemn moment, I think about the whole team and crewmembers, without them the expedition will be not possible.
Everything goes fast, the schedule for the day is busy. With Laurent, we share this comfortable sentiment of being able to sail « Southern Star » on schedule for one year and 21 legs.
That’s the end of the expedition « Around North America 2008, 2009 » . Now we will have more time for films, books, lectures in view to keep going in sharing our experience and what we learn during this year with the public.

They were on board for this leg :

Top, from left to right : Laurent Cérésoli (France), Vincent Berthet (France), Olivier Pitras (France), Pierre-Charles Gueroult (France), Fatima Do Ceu (Portugal), Jean luc Alexandre Held (Suisse).
Bottom, from left to right : Vonne Blanchet (France), Charlie Mélédo (France)

 

Straumsfjord-Photo Vincent Berthet
Crew Reykjavik - Tromsø
Photo Knut Vibé
(Click to enlarge )


Straumsfjord-Photo Vincent Berthet
Arrival toTromsø
Photo Knut Vibe
(Click to enlarge )

May 15, 2009 (time onboard = TU + 2)
Ryøya, Norway,
69°33’N – 018°45’E
20:10 local time

Another beautiful day. We have ideal conditions to finish the expedition. It’s a lot to do to prepare our arrival, not to mention the tremendous job that the team on shore is doing. Exhibitions and lectures are ready. A part of the team arrives this evening at the airport. We will see them tomorrow. We cast anchor in the middle of the afternoon in the East of Ryøya Island. We can see in the North East Tromsøya. That’s incredible to be there. So many things happen in one year, we have a hard time to realize.
The loch indicates 21 679 Nautical miles (40 150 kms)

Straumsfjord-Photo Vincent Berthet

Photo Vincent Berthet
(Click to enlarge )
May 14, 2009 (time onboard = TU + 2)
Hestøya, Norway
69°22’N – 018°03’E
23:00 local time

The day starts by a sea bath. Don’t worry, with drysuit and diving tank because the water is rather cold. As soon as we got our anchor up we get a rope in the propeller. We have no other choice, we have to dive to get rid of it. Diving and turquoise waters are usually associated with tropical zone but we are still in northern Norway.
The exit of our shelter is amazing of beauty. We have a beautiful weather all over the day. The sky is just plain blue, no clouds. The barometer is high. We cast anchor in the evening in the west of the tiny « Hestøya ».
The loch is at 21 657 nautical miles.

 

Geese flying-Photo Vincent Berthet
Geese flying
Photo Vincent Berthet
(Click to enlarge )

Kjoetta-Photo Vincent Berthet Kjoeta
Photo Vincent Berthet
(Click to enlarge )
Kjoeta-Photo Vincent Berthet
Sortie de Kjoeta
Photo Vincent Berthet
(Click to enlarge )

 

 

May 13, 2009 (time onboard = TU + 2)
Kjoetta, Norway
68°52’N – 016°42’E
20:00 local time

The morning has long started when we hit the road. The trip for today drives us to channels which do not exceed half mile sometimes. We are just in the middle of mountains. Sometimes prairies spread their green covers to white sandy beaches. If the water is shallow, the color can be turquoise. In the end of the afternoon, we cast anchor in the anchorage of Kjoetta Island. Everything is peaceful. The team goes for a walk on Kjoetta Kalven Island who protects us from the North. Geese are nested here. Couple of eagles turn around.

Turquoise waters in Norway-Photo Vincent Berthet
Turquoise waters
Photo Vincent Berthet
(Click to enlarge )
May 12, 2009 (time onboard = TU + 2)
Lødingen, Norway.

22:00 local time

We are ready to go but we have a lack of water to leave our dock. The tide is going up and we decide to wait a bit to secure our departure. At noon, we are heading for the insides. The chain of Lofoten disappears to the horizon while we are getting deeper in the labyrinth of channels. The organization for our arrival in Tromsø keeps us very busy. In the end of the afternoon, we arrive to Lødingen.

 

Lodingen, Norway-Photo Vincent Berthet
Lødingen
Photo Vincent Berthet
(Click to enlarge )
May 11, 2009 (time onboard = TU + 2)
Svolvær, Lofoten, Norway.

19:50 local time

Rain , rain, rain, this morning. We sail out of the fjord in perfect smooth waters. After a while the rain stops, summits appear in their wild beauty. The snow hold quite low in deep valleys. We sail the thirty miles from Nusfjord to Svolvaer enjoying the fabulous landscapes. The clouds and the wind give to the sea, mountains and sky the opportunity to wear an infinity of grey.

Cod drying-Photo Vincent Berthet
Cod drying
Photo Vincent Berthet
(Click to enlarge )
May 10, 2009 (time onboard = TU + 2)
Nusfjord, Lofoten, Norway.
68°02’N – 13°21’E
19:00 local time

Day off today, rain. Trekking, mailing and cleaning are the main activities. Tomorrow we keep going.


Nusfjord. Vincent Berthet
Nusfjord
Photo Vincent Berthet
(Click to enlarge )
May 9, 2009 (time onboard = TU)
Nusfjord, Lofoten, Norway.
68°02’N – 13°21’E
23:55 local time

We are sailing downwind in a moderate breeze. We are going well and fast to our destination which is not far away anymore. Around noon the first islets of Lofoten are in sight. The sky is overcast and we discover the islands while we are going on.
At the end of the afternoon we land in the tiny fjord of Nusfjord. We are back in Norway after one year.
This arrival sets the end of the off shore navigation. Now, our navigation to Tromsø will be protected from the swell and under the infinite protection of the Norwegian fjords. The loch shows 21 501 nautical miles.

 


Hirondelle-Photo Olivier Pitras
Swallow
Photo Olivier Pitras
(Click to enlarge )
Lofoten Island-Photo Vincent Berthet

Lofoten Islands
Photo Vincent Berthet
(Click to enlarge)
May 8, 2009 (time onboard = TU)
Vestfjord Valley
66°44’N – 009°09’E
22:30 local time

Around 6 AM, the wind is getting down for the whole morning and we go back to a comfortable route. Far to the horizon, a stripe of blue sky approaches quickly, the wind should be back soon. We don’t have to wait for long to get the confirmation. Within a couple of minutes the sky clears up and the wind starts to blow hardly. Its direction and its temporarly aspect do not worth that we change our route further North. We better have to hove to for a while. Sounds very good to the cooking team, it’is time to start to cook and the boat is suddently more comfortable. It’s a perfect timing, coffee it’s just served when the wind falls down, we can get back towards our destination. At 7 PM, we cross the polar circle for the fourth time of the expedition. It’s a first for 5 of us, then we have a drink to celebrate the event. Now, strong wind should be over till the Lofoten.
Loch : 21 369 nautical miles.


Surfiing-Photo Vincent Berthet
Hardening the sails
Photo Vincent Berthet
(Click to enlarge)
May 7, 2009 (time onboard = TU)
Norwegian Sea
65°34’N – 004°33’E
23:2 local time

The day begins quite nicely. The breeze is fresh and steady. Couple of waves invite themselves on deck but in a very polite way. During the day, the wind picks up gradually, the sea stays relatively calm. We have to wait the evening to see the wind blowing hardly in heavy gusts. Under very small sails, we are heading for the Vest Fjord which separates the Lofoten Archipelago from the rest of Norwegian coasts.


Surfiing-Photo Vincent Berthet
Petrel
Photo Vincent Berthet
(Click to enlarge)
May 6, 2009 (time onboard = TU)
Norwegian Sea, still West but not for long
64°32’N – 001°01’W
22:35 local time

The wind is getting calmer, it’s 7 AM. The traditional vocabulary is not adapted any more, we don’t have night anymore. The sea gets calm very soon and we can enjoy a peaceful day. We stay East not pointing North to stay on the good slope of the low. In the evenning, the barometer is 984 mb. We’re waiting for strong wind tomorrow but it shouldn’t exceed 35 knts although 50 are predicted North-West of the Hebrides.
Loch: 21 097 nautical miles.

 


Surfiing-Photo Vincent Berthet
Sailing downwind
Photo Vincent Berthet
(Click to enlarge)
May 5, 2009 (time onboard = TU)
Norwegian Sea
63°58’N – 006°14’W
23:40 local time

The gale is still here. Watches are going cold and wet. A lot of water sweeps regularly the deck. In the evening, a big wave breaks just on top of us. In a second, the deck is covered with a thick layer of water. In such circumstances it’s difficult to keep all this water outside. We have a little bit who came in by the companions ways and chimney. We left the continental shelf that links Feroe Islands to Iceland and sail now in the Norwegian Sea.
The loch shows 20 930 nautical miles


Sunrise-Photo Vincent Berthet

Photo Vincent Berthet
(Click to enlarge)
May 4, 2009 (time onboard = TU)
Between Iceland and Feroe Islands
63°12’N – 012°10’W
22:30 local time

The night is calm although the swell is preventing us to carry to sails we would like. But we don’t have to wait for long. In the morning, the wind picks up from the West and increase rapidly. One hour later we are in the gale. The sea is big. A surf push us up to 18,5 knots. We should keep these conditions until tomorrow night .
Loch: 20 783 nautical miles.


Sunrise-Photo Vincent Berthet
Surfing
Photo Vincent Berthet
(Click to enlarge)
May 3rd, 2009 (time onboard = TU)
South Iceland.
63°01’N – 017°56’W
23:10 local time

When we reach the South-West Point of Iceland, it’s getting late but we can still see very well the Islet Eldey with its high cliffs against the horizon. Now, the glow of the sun stays permanently bellow the horizon, turning by the North and coming back East before sunrise. Dusk and dawn are just the same, no night in between. While we sail toward the South East, the sea is getting calmer. In the morning, every body shows up. Faces are getting their colors back. Those who where in charge for the last 24 hours can rest better. The day is going on that way. We are sailing on the route between showers. We are waiting for a low which should bring us downwind in gale force.
The loch is 20 593 NM.

 


Sunrise-Photo Vincent Berthet
Sunrise
Photo Vincent Berthet
(Click to enlarge)
May 2nd, 2009 (time onboard = TU)
South-West point of Iceland.
63°49’N – 22°50’W
22:25 local timel

The city is quiet in this Saturday morning. We keep going in our preparation for departure. A Diesel truck is waiting for us on the other side of the harbour. While we are docking, the Custom Officer arrives, perfect ! We can do both at the time and leave very soon. Right at the exit of the harbour, the ambiance is set. The swell breaks heavily on to the shore, stomachs are suddenly disturbed and we temporarily loose half of our crew. We set sail in the most simple and easy way we can imagine to be handled by a small committee. Showers are numerous. The wind is contrary to clear the bay but after it will be favourable heading East.


Departing from Icelande-Pkhoto Vincent Berthet
Departing from Reykjavik
Photo Vincent Berthet
(Click to enlarge)
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