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Leg 6
Gjoa haven - Tuktoyaktuk
(Canada)
(August 21 - 28, 2008 )
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August 28, 2008 (Onboard
time = UTC - 6)
Tuktoyaktuk, North West Territories, Canada
69°27’N – 133°02’W
23h55 local time
The visibility is good and we can see the lights of Tuktoyaktuk in a
distance. The bottom does not exceed four meters and part of beacons are
not lighted. We decide to wait for the daylight before entering the
harbour. We cast anchor at 4 AM in three meters of water sheltered
behind a reef who protect us from the north. After couple of hours of
sleep, we keep going toward the net of sandy islands who constitutes the
harbour. Barges delivering goods to northern communities are docked
there. They sail up the MacKenzie river before to call here and start
their sea trip. Tuk is centre of this commercial activity. We’re sailing
at very low speed outside the channel to approach an isolated tiny dock.
The area is very shallow and we send the dinghy to make sure there is
enough water for docking. It should be OK for our 2,2 draft. It’s 12h30
when we achieve the sixth leg of the expedition. Tuktoyaktuk will be our
last port of call before Alaska. We have sailed 5674 nautical miles
since Tromsø.
11 crew members have participated to this leg.
On top, from left to right :
Daniel Desage (France),
Philippe Moreau (France),
Dominique Damour (France),
Thierry Deakin (France),
Laurent Ceresoli (France),
Tino Schuman (Allemagne),
Yannick Rouillé (France).
Down, from left to right : Olivier Pitras (France),
Gabriel Pitras (France),
Philippe Rouillé (France),
Emilie Guegan (France). |
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August 27, 2008 (Onboard
time = UTC - 6)
Beaufort sea, 69°47’N – 132°38’W
22h50 local time
Once in the west of Cape Bathurst, the swell calms down, the wind comes
back, still favourable and we sail comfortable. We watch for three
whales at short range, probably bow whales. Soon, we’re sailing in
shallow waters and it will stay that way till our arrival. Slowly, every
one gets out of his or her berth after 36 hours for some of us. For
lunch everybody is around the table and the meal is more than welcome.
We’re 90 miles from arrival, discussions are about our next stop over.
After this rough weather, the crew enjoy and relax in the saloon. We
should arrive to night at Tuktoyaktuk.
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August 26, 2008 (Onboard
time = UTC - 6)
Amundsen gulf, 70°45’N – 126°34’W
23h55 local time
Our average is better but this sea is rough and some of us got seasick.
We’re organizing the watches a bit different to let them in their
berths. We spent our day that way. We’re sailing fast to cape Bathurst
who will mark our entrance in Beaufort sea. North of Tuktoyaktuk, the
pack ice is at 71°N. Our route is further South. In the beginning of the
afternoon, the wind calms down a bit, we’re still fast but more
comfortable. Unfortunately, it disappears completely around 11 PM and
let us with flapping and banging sails with this swell which is still
big . The sky is clear, the moon is on watch. |
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August 25, 2008 (Onboard
time = UTC - 6)
Amundsen gulf, 69°40’N – 119°07’W
22h00 local time
At midnight, we’re entering the Dolphin and Union strait. The wind is
violent but favourable. Only a small patch of sail in front give us a
good speed. The sky stays clear. In the south starts a beautiful
northern light. Our first one since the night came back. In the morning
we are in a real gale who permits us to reach the Amundsen gulf at noon.
The see is big. The swell short and steep. Steering requires a huge
concentration to keep the boat in line. Rotations are frequent. Same
conditions prevail for the rest of the day and our average is getting
much more better. |
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August 24, 2008 (Onboard
time = UTC - 6)
Coronation gulf, 68°25’N – 112°44’W
22h35 local time
The day starts with nothing special to notice. It’s a sunny day with no
wind. We’re getting impatient. In the afternoon, we reach the Edinburgh
channel who marks our entrance in Coronation gulf. A landscape is not so
flat here. We’re entering a large igneous region from the time there was
only one continent. The cliffs are conspicuous with typical basaltic
patterns.
Between Edinburgh Island and Murray Island, while we’re close
to the land, we can see a musk ox. He is alone, strange for an animal
which is in group generally ! Slowly the wind comes and increases gently
hour after hour to become a strong breeze. We’re sailing downwind in
flat waters. The sun sets with a strong refraction and give us an
original sunset. |
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August 23, 2008 (Onboard
time = UTC - 6)
Dease strait, 68°49’N – 107°33’W
23h55 local time
Since the departure from Gjoa Haven, the wind is not established. We’re
sailing again in a light contrary wind. At noon, we’re entering the
Dease strait. Couple of islands break the monotony of the landscape. We
have the pleasure to open the sail a bit before the wind falls again.
Our average is weak and Tuktoyaktuk is still far away. We’re looking
forward to have the strong easterly wind which is predicted for
tomorrow. In between we’re collecting “copepods” (zooplankton) which
needs low speed. At the end of the day, we’re eighty nautical miles away
from Edinburgh channel who marks the entrance of Coronation gulf. |
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August 22, 2008 (Onboard
time = UTC - 6)
Queen Maud Gulf,
68°28’N – 102°37’W
22h40 local time
The night is dark now and becomes every day almost half an hour longer.
We’re heading south-west to clear Amundsen’s island in our north. While
approaching Hat island, reefs are numerous. Every island and islets
drawn a single line on to the horizon. Up here, everything is terribly
flat. In the south of Nordenskjöld archipelago, we meet the coast
guard ship “Amundsen” which is running an health survey during the
navigation season all over the Canadian Arctic communities.
When the big
reef is clear, we can point to the Dease strait in the west of the gulf.
In the evening, the get rid of the contrary wind, we can take a direct
route to our next destination.
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August 21, 2008 (Onboard
time = UTC - 6)
Simpson strait,
68°38’N – 098°12’W
22h30 local time
9h30, the chain of the anchor who turns in the windlass marks the
departure of our sixth leg. The wind is west, moderated. The village is
calm like every morning. We’re heading south of king William island
while Gjoa Haven disappears quickly behind. We’re sailing in shallow
waters. The coast is extremely flat but we can see isolated islands
floating on the horizon. We have to study very carefully the map because
reefs and shoals are numerous in the Simpson strait between the island
and the continent.
In the end of the afternoon, we meet the coast guard
ship “Wilfrid Laurier”. Our curiosity is big and we do not resist to
give them a call to the radio to know if they found tracks of Franklin’s
expedition. Nothing as yet, the mystery is still full. The sun sets at
the exit of the strait. The moon is accompanying us for our first miles
in the gulf of queen Maud. |
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